Monday, January 3, 2011

Bright skirts and white shirts

Raf Simons for Jil Sander spring 2011. Minimalism's inverse. Maximalism. Couture Giganticism. Terms all considered by Simons himself when it came to describing the inspiration behind his latest collection in which no colour was spared. Fuchsia. Bright orange. Blue, green red. And in every combination imaginable. After the bright and ballooning skirts, whose tailored volume was played down with plain white tees, came the colour-blocking. A pink button-down tucked into orange flares finished with a royal purple coat. A cropped coral blazer over a magenta shirt with a burnt orange peplum. Purple over red and then pink cigarette pants, hidden beneath a green coat; red tucked into blue layers, and a splash of yellow for good measure. Colours that might otherwise be overwhelming were pulled off in the surprisingly simplest of ways. The tailoring was nothing but clean, and the cleverness was found, aside from the tricky colour combinations, in a fitted tee tucked into a puffball skirt, stiff collars with silken oxford shirting, and of course the voluminous lengths of it all. I'm not usually one for excess, but when maximalism becomes minimal - stripped back to the very basics of colour and shape and line - I'm all for it. 


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