Sunday, October 18, 2009
The latest issue of Grazia featuring Miranda's exclusive interview hits shelves tomorrow, so make sure you grab a copy to see the Sydney rooftop shoot. I've had a little sneak peak on the Grazia website, and weight issues aside, Miranda is flying high at the top of her game (helium balloons don't hurt either!)
Phoebe Philo's latest showing for the French label will have women clamouring for the strong yet clean lines that have followed on from the fall shows. Minimalism was definitely the key trend, with the designer wanting to 'clean it up,' saying her aim was to make the collection 'strong and powerful.' Mission accomplished. The collection epitomised the contemporary woman; sharp tailoring paired with leather-everything; from the not-so-predictable jackets and capes to skirts, tops, dresses and shorts. Crisp whites and midnight blues perforated the neutral palette, which will ensure this collection packs a staying punch with the power-players.
Sticking to her 'what women want' aesthetic in a way that would've made Mel Gibson proud, saw Stella emerge from her boyfriend-blazer cocoon with the return of the waistlines. McCartney has always been one to focus on chic wearability as opposed to the showy artiness some designers can't get away from, and this aspect of her design is sure to please her clientele (and attract new ones) for many years to come. The blazers didn't disappear completely (thankfully!) but they were taken in a new- more shapely tailored- direction. Expertly placed ruffles were played down with pleats and belted waists, while also adorning bust and hemlines of print and flare-heavy skirts and dresses. As a cohesive collection, one can see how the woman McCartney designs for could easily move from day to night, office to weekend. Her chicly tailored separates enable wardrobe versatility; an aspect that couldn't have arrived during a more convenient summer.
With a mainly monochromal palette, Riccardo Tisci is another who's nailed the combination of geometric shapes and soft drapes. The program notes alluded to a roman theme; and while the toga-esque lines were a highlight, the Catholic inspired priest hats were not! The overall look was all clean-lined and refreshingly simple, and each piece had the sort of detail and craftsmanship you'd expect from one of the biggest names in Parisian couture. The handful of sheer, lightly draped dresses often complete with beaded shoulder accents were cleverly juxtaposed with the resounding strength in other silhouettes, creating a collection which will heavily - and successfully- target the edgy youth market.
Karl Lagerfeld also focused on accentuated waistlines paired with rising hemlines- a feature that also showed up in his collection for Chanel. This time around we saw a much more playful version of the label- in both the show and the clothes. Karl's current obsession, Lily Allen, kept the country theme rolling along, whilst the models waltzed (and in some cases, rolled) down the runway amongst bales of hay- whilst wearing clogs! Let's hope this part of Paris doesn't translate off-runway anytime soon. Lanvin's overt embellishment, whilst showing disregard for the recession, was a resounding favourite for the fashion-sweet tooths, while everything at Balmain will continue to be quick sellers, and feature on many a fashionable celebrity I'm sure. With the doom and gloom of winter behind us, this summer will shape up (quite literally) to be a buyer-blowout.
Tuesday, October 6, 2009
Miranda Kerr walking for Balenciaga
Naomi Campbell, making a comeback?
Russian success story: Natalia Vodianova
Aussie's favourite mainstream model, Miranda Kerr, has been spotted out and about in Paris this week, making her debut on the high fashion stage with a spot in the Balenciaga lineup. As noted in my earlier post, she was miles away from her cherubic self in Ghesquiere's latest showing for the famed Spanish house, rocking futuristic winged eyeliner- and not the sort you'd see on a Victoria's Secret runway. With no glitter or feathers in sight, Miranda was barely recognisable in a grey leather vest and textually pleated skirt. Wonder whether we'll see her lovely face on the runway again before the week's out?! It wouldn't be the first time an Angel has traded their halo for haute couture- my favourite, Natasha Poly- started her career walking for the lingerie label, before being snapped up by the editorial world.
Speaking of transitions, Naomi Campbell proved why she's a part of the original supermodel club, also taking to the Paris runways this week. Nearing 40 (!) Campbell is more than twice the age of half the girls out there, proving longevity isn't just a myth in the modelling industry. She walked for Russian designer Igor Chapurin, and also made an appearance at London's Fashion Week- closing the show for Issa. It seems the '90s are not over- with Russia's Cinderella success-story and Calvin Klein's long-time muse- Natalia Vodianova walking for Stella McCartney.
With the models-as-household-names phenomenon long gone, let's hope the modelling industry has finally turned over a new (green) leaf and starts using their recycling bins a bit more....
photos: style.com and zimbio
Saturday, October 3, 2009
A prime example of a designer who is known for his often avant garde couture is Dior headhunter John Galliano, and his ready to wear collection was just that. Amongst all the overtly '80s inspired collections of late, it was refreshing to see inspiration from a new era emerge. Forties film stars reigned supreme; with shiny red pouts and bouncing waves offsetting feminine yet structured trenches amongst a collection of underwear-as-outwear; a trend single handedly put on the fashion map by Galliano.
Christophe Decarnin has really set the bar in terms of sexy deconstructionism; combining military jackets with sequins and barely-there hemlines in a way only Balmain could. While the follow-on from previous collections is obvious, space age has been replaced by a sparkling disco dancer emerging from the caves. The aesthetic is more closely related to Decarnin's own style than previous lines, with the leather jacket and skinny army pants combo he donned himself looking like a piece from the same collection. With the bold-shouldered trend resting upon his own, it's going to take an army (probably dressed in Balmain) to knock him off his well-deserved perch.
Frida Giannini followed on the sparkling success of her fall collection, this time taking Gucci on an athletic road less travelled, and staying there with conviction. The collection revolved around the figure-hugging silhouette of a layered bandage dress, with the designer herself emerging at the end of the show in a tightly wound little black number. Past shows like Wang in New York and Macdonald in London spring to mind upon the emergence of Natasha Poly poured into a startlingly bright white multi-strap dress. With the white starting block fading to grey around the bend, it was typical Gucci-girl print up the back straight and sharp, dark beading on sleek dresses bringing it home. A definite highlight of not only Milan, but the entire current season, with the streak of modernism Giannini finally deciding to play paying off in spades.