Saturday, October 3, 2009

Milan's turn at that thing known as Fashion Week

Fashion week has just wrapped in the fashion capital of Italy, Milan, proving once again why everything with an Italian label oozes glamour and sensuality. In Milan, the designs are a world away from the cool-factor of London, where the summer 2010 collections, and rightly so, are hot hot hot.

Frida Giannini followed on the sparkling success of her fall collection, this time taking Gucci on an athletic road less travelled, and staying there with conviction. The collection revolved around the figure-hugging silhouette of a layered bandage dress, with the designer herself emerging at the end of the show in a tightly wound little black number. Past shows like Wang in New York and Macdonald in London spring to mind upon the emergence of Natasha Poly poured into a startlingly bright white multi-strap dress. With the white starting block fading to grey around the bend, it was typical Gucci-girl print up the back straight and sharp, dark beading on sleek dresses bringing it home. A definite highlight of not only Milan, but the entire current season, with the streak of modernism Giannini finally deciding to play paying off in spades.


Fellow Italian glamourite Donatella Versace, poster girl for the fun and frivolity of '90s fashion, took the label back it its roots with shorter-than-short hemlines, wild prints and colour. And what a time to do so- with hemlines on the rise the world over, Donatella stepped up to the plate and showed them all how it's done. Psychedelic, geometric prints splashed in zesty neons over a figure-hugging silhouette formed the basis of this Alice in Wonderland themed collection. When she wasn't skirting the issue, Donatella threw in a sleek, tailored jacket or two, just for good measure. Ending with floor-length chiffon gowns in a rainbow hued array perfect for the up and coming awards season, Donatella proved why she's the go to girl for quintessential Italian glamour.


Other Milanese highlights, and also fans of colour's reemergence, were Emilio Pucci and Prada, the latter's take on colour reverberated through to the showstopping glossy pouts. Taking a break from the swirling print side of Pucci was Peter Dundas with his debut collection built upon the water-loving scuba trend. However, it wasn't just a line full of body dresses that one might assume makes up a summer 2010 show; Dundas cleverly incorporated many varying trends of the season within the limits of a single show. There were deconstructed tees done Decarnin-style, softly draped safari pants, strong shouldered jackets all mixed in with the vibrant, flowing dresses a Pucci girl would love. Miuccia Prada took a step back from the leather-punch, presenting a strong-lined collection revolving around a "business-to-beach" idea. And I mean this quite literally: sleek office wear was branded with a seaside pattern, pared back with monochromal, tech-looking separates.


Over at Dolce & Gabbana, the crowd was treated to a different kind of finale- an upheaval from past endings of voluminous ballgowns. After a latina-themed, overtly lacy show, the models took to the runway in a'40s inspired lingerie-clad-bunch, lead by all-round favourite Natasha Poly. With a sexy and glamorous, but always classy week done, we're now on the home straight of the ready-to-wear summer 2010 season, and let it be known Paris won't let us down!

Natasha Poly leading the pack at the Dolce & Gabbana finale
photos:, Zimbio, Coutorture

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