I wish I could read Russian. As it is, I can't, so I'll have to settle for being able to read fashion. A quick scan of the blogosphere however, reveals the title of this editorial as "New World." I couldn't think of anything more suitable given this is the last issue of Russian Vogue under founding editor, Aliona Doletskaya. Although at the time of publication, new EIC Victoria Davydova had already taken up post, due to the time lag in magazine-land, we won't see Davydova's work until the October issue. And judging by this issue, the pressure's certainly on. Not that it wasn't before. Since its inception just 12 years ago, Vogue Russia has been viewed as one of the most influential editions of Vogue- right up there with Editrix Roitfeld's Paris edition.
As well as the title's nod to the new editorship, it heralds September's change of season, where summer turns over a new leaf (pardon the pun) and fades to fall. At least in the northern hemisphere, where all the fall/winter collections are beginning to hit stores. It picks up on the notion that women are on the collective cusp of bidding farewell to the old and eagerly embracing the new. Don't be fooled that this rejection of the outdated in favour of on-trend pieces is all part of a vicious cycle that will begin again come next season. Quite the opposite. In fact, it is this cycle of chasing what is "new" and "on-trend" which appears to be dwindling, as investment dressing has never been more appropriate; or popular. Trend-forecasting will never disappear completely. There will always be the latest heel (block, kitten, wedge) or skirt (full, maxi, body-conscious) or even handbag (oversized, across-the-body, box) but the fashion tide seems to be turning towards something more... sustainable. Towards something that can offer both style and longevity. Towards something that can offer what trends cannot: timelessness.
The appropriately named "New World" story, shot by Sharif Hamza features an all-star cast including Alessandra Ambrosio, Coco Rocha, Ana Beatriz Barros and Dree Hemingway. Under the styling genius of Simon Robbins, the story features designs by Chloé, Michael Kors, Max Mara, Burberry, Calvin Klein and Céline, to name a few. All these designers have released collections of which many have had that certain timeless quality of late. Think back to all of the so-called trends that this season has been labelled as sporting. Coats? Fur? Neutral-hues? Minimalism? Save for the current penchant for all things animal print (which I cannot see disappearing in a hurry) the current pared-back aesthetic can apply season after season and then serve as the base for many a would-be trend afterwards. And this is the new world into which fashion, and Vogue Russia, is emerging into.
Finally, for those who are still confused as to why fashion editorials, or spreads, are referred to as 'stories', what better example than this. No matter what language, if any, the story is told, if it is exectuted well, with stylists, photographers, models and all those behind-the-scenes collaborating in a way as cohesive as this- the message is loud and clear. Despite the fact that the words, to most of us, are much less discernable. No trend is on-trend. And that, my friends, is the moral of this story. New world indeed.
