Waist(less) Coats

With all this talk of masculine tailoring, the most obvious (and easiest to wear no doubt) is the omission of the waistline. While a cinched waist will always remain a classic, the looser fit allows for a modern take on separates, especially where proportions are concerned. As seen in many a pre-fall collection, including Celine, Stella McCartney, Jil Sander and even Alber Elbaz's females-should-dress-as-females Lanvin - the last inclusion showing that this shape can be as much for the girls as it is for the boys. And it wouldn't be a waistless season without the drop-waists at the house that Coco built - Chanel. 

Take style cues from ex-EiC of Vogue Paris, Carine Roitfeld, for whom tights and obligatory heels create the streamlined opposite of her coat. Or make like model Martha Streck, whose waist is ever so sightly nipped in under her camel coat, or Natalia Alaverdian, whose lengthened silhouette is helped by a form-skimming maxi skirt. By combining a voluminous coat with more fitted pieces, big (and even baggy) shapes are suddenly a far cry from manly. 

via: Style.com, the Sartorialist and StockholmStreetStyle

Lanvin loves H&M

...and I love Lanvin. Even though I'm heading over to the UK in three days, I would seriously consider buying another ticket so I could be in line for this November 23rd release. Although... I have been tipped off not to do so until September 9. Wonder what news could possibly be bigger than this collab? Nothing, you say? We'll see.

X

via:Sockholmstreetstyle

Lanvin Fall 2010 campaign

 

Finally. We've reached that time of year when magazines are flying off the shelves, and not for the content- it's campaign season people! The latest rounds of print advertisements for the Fall 2010 ready-to-wear collections are starting to be released, and from what I've seen so far- we won't be disappointed. Lanvin just unveiled their new campaign on Monday, shot my Steven Meisel featuring Magdalena Frackowiak, Anja Rubik and Mariacarla Boscono. You know it's going to be a good thing when these names are involved. Must say, I'm loving the focus on the embellished accessories in the mirrored shots.

And while we're on the topic of Lanvin (which is a regular occurence around here anyway), here's a peek (no pun intended!) of their Resort showcase...

Love Alber!

pictures: Fashion Gone Rogue and Style.com

More-bidly obsessed with: Knuckle Dusters

Cocktail jewellery is not a new phenomenon by any means (unlike the earthquake that just happened in Adelaide- ha! Had to). The likes of Rachel Zoe and Nicole Richie have been banging on about "more is more is more" for years (Mademoiselle Chanel would be turning in her grave at this sentiment.) What is it with skinny chicks and their giant rocks? Is there some kind of unwritten rule that the smaller you are the more (gold, not pounds) you pile on? Hmmm.  

When I was in London recently, I found this really cool ring at a market stall in Camden. This little (ha! I'm not wrong!) Asian guy handmade all this really quirky jewellery with a friend of his, and the first one I liked was this twisted gold ram ring. It was quite weird actually, because I'm not the superstitious type, but I remembered something about a ram being a symbol for a star sign... so my friend Google-d it (good ol' iPhones) and turns out ram=Capricorn. And, in case you can't tell where this is going, Capricorn=Me! Fate. And - cute.

Lanvin Spring 2010 had some amaaazing standout pieces; think heavy gold linked-chains, jewel-encrusted cuffs and strands upon strands of shiny metals and stones. The good thing (well, one of many) is that these pieces can (almost) be justified through their versatility- you can wear them alone or layer them up- and up and up. Great against an LBD or even with an embellished outfit- preferably the sequined romper from the same collection...

Perspex jewellery was also huge on the Spring runways- Burberry Prorsum and Michael Kors are two shows that come to mind here. Not sure how I feel about the retro baubles at MK, but I loved the angular, smokey quartz-like perspex Christopher Bailey sent out at Burberry. I thought the sharpness of the jewellery made a great contrast to the soft twists and drapes and muted pastels of the clothes.

Oh, and since I'm on the topic of all things sparkly, I have a huge thing for double-finger rings. I first saw one on the Hills' Lauren Conrad, who actually has her name as the ring. It's like Carrie Bradshaw's "Carrie necklace" (you know, the one she thought she lost when she had to 'bend and scoop in Dior'), but in a ring version. There's heaps of websites out there trying to make a quick buck (or hundred - these things aren't cheap!) offering customised double-finger rings. These aren't quite as dangerous as the more typical cocktail rings, but trés chic all the same (I'm serious- some of these things are like weapons). Who needs a man to engage (pardon the pun) in some serious knuckle-dusting? Not me.

Photos: style.com and personalizedboutique.com

J'adore Lanvin

Pieces from Lanvin Spring/Summer 2010

Just in case no one has noticed, I have a faint (ha, yeah right) obsession with all that is Lanvin. Alber Elbaz is pure genius. Season after season of serving up magnificently refined ways of dressing, he reassures us all that it's okay to dress as women in this world many still believe is a man's. I don't think it'd be too far from the truth in saying he's got that softly tailored thing down to a fine science. He himself hit the nail on the head when referring to the inspiration behind his latest fall collection: "Women ask for masculine tailoring, but they want to feel feminine." Bingo. Women are a bunch of contractions aren't they Alber?!

Prior to 2001, and Elbaz's appointment as artistic director, the French house had yet to establish a 'personal identity' for itself, to use marketing speak. What a turnaround. Since his very first collection for Autumn/Winter 2002, drapery, flattering silhouettes, refined details, perfect degrees of embellishment- all that is woman-friendly- has become synonymous with the label.

It's all in the deatils: SS '10

All of Lanvin's collections since the first under Elbaz's creative direction have been heralded with the same taglines: "an impressive degree of respect for real women" (SS '02), "a personal gift to the modern Lanvin woman" (AW '06) and "clothes that make women reel over in desire" (SS '07). Misguided that he strolls down the austere path of banal, stopping occasionally on his way to boredom? Don't be. He himself noted that he is not an optimist, or a pessimist; but a realist. And what's wrong with that? Realism is not banal. Or austere. It is real. Frustratingly gorgeous, simple but daring, powerful yet feminine; loose and soft but sculpted and moulded and chic. Take Spring/Summer 2010 for example; what started out as a slew of black draping, ruffles and asymmetry burst into a silken dream filled with jewelled pinks and blues and beads. His work is the perfect example of the masculine versus feminine debate; with the right amount of pleating, pinching, ruffling, draping and beading; a piece of suit fabric is reworked into a modern-day, womanly, miracle. Creating confidence and beauty for women, while giving direction to this house once known for its beautifully tailored men’s' suits. Ironic, no?


My favourite, and most spot on in terms of Elbaz's goal, was Sarah Mower's review of his 2006 Spring/Summer collection: "He is one of the few designers who remembers we are still earthlings who serve in offices and quite like (past the age of 25) to get out at night in something other than a baby doll." (This was back when the movement of baby-doll dresses was upon us, favourably endorsed by nearly every celebrity creature- thank YOU Lindsay Lohan. Not.) Even though I am not quite at the milestone Mower referred to (being the ripe old age of 20), I'd like to think once I graduate past the age of body-con, there's something else out there. With a Lanvin label, no less.

Desert Days: Comtesse Natasha

What could be a better combination than Natasha Poly and Paris Vogue? Not too much at all (well, perhaps looking like her...) The Russian supermodel features on the latest cover and spread that was shot by Inez van Lambsweerde and Vinoodeh Matadin somewhere in the dunes of the African desert.

I looove the styling of this shoot, and how many of the trends of the past few seasons have been interpreted in a way that so perfectly fits the location. I especially love all the draping- but not in the way I usually do- all the colour, the clash of prints and embellishments is just gorgeous. Dohti pants, while fashionable now, did- and still do- serve as staple basic for desert travelers... everywhere. The heavily beaded neck pieces and stacks of jumbled bracelets aren't too far removed from what you might imagine adorning the local women of Cairo's market bazaars. Although I'm not too sure how often you'd see couture wandering the desert paths, I love that these contradictions exist at the same time as all the similarities. Oh, and I'm loving Isabel Marant's "Dana" fringe canvas boot from her spring collection- a follow on from the freakish success of her original "Ottway" studded ankle booties. Favourite look? The overtly-embellished Lanvin romper tucked into the aforementioned Marants. Not sure if it was intentional, but featuring Moroccan born, Israeli-raised Elbaz's creation in this ethnically inspired shoot? Genius.

Too bad I'm no longer in Paris otherwise I would've strolled down the Rue de Sevres just off St Germain de Prés, to my local marchand de journaux, and picked up a copy for my morning perusal. Until then, there's always airmail... and inflation.













I first stumbled upon this spread on the blog of super-stylist Monica Rose - definitely worth a look over. She's amazing.

Photos from fashionising.com

Paris begins... ohh la la!

We're finally into the last, but by no means least, stage of fashion weeks for the summer 2010 collections; Paris. While the prêt-à-porter shows aren't what couture-loving Parisians look forward to most on their yearly fashion calender, they sure know how to make clothes women actually want to wear, that's for sure.

A prime example of a designer who is known for his often avant garde couture is Dior headhunter John Galliano, and his ready to wear collection was just that. Amongst all the overtly '80s inspired collections of late, it was refreshing to see inspiration from a new era emerge. Forties film stars reigned supreme; with shiny red pouts and bouncing waves offsetting feminine yet structured trenches amongst a collection of underwear-as-outwear; a trend single handedly put on the fashion map by Galliano.

Christian Dior

Other highlights at Paris so far have been Balenciaga, the greatly-anticipated Balmain and designer-for-the-cool-kids Isabel Marant. Ghesquière's latest showing is an obvious departure from his drape-heavy fall collection, with not a soft layer in sight in this urban-cool collection for Balenciaga. This show was all about stepping out of the box- it even featured our very own Victoria's Secret angel Miranda Kerr, who was without her feathered safety wings in a street-inspired schoolgirl get up. Leather hoodies, skin tights pants and modern patchwork were combined in a genius way that will definitely prove hard for chain store labels to rip-off; a problem still continuing to plague the next designer.

Christophe Decarnin has really set the bar in terms of sexy deconstructionism; combining military jackets with sequins and barely-there hemlines in a way only Balmain could. While the follow-on from previous collections is obvious, space age has been replaced by a sparkling disco dancer emerging from the caves. The aesthetic is more closely related to Decarnin's own style than previous lines, with the leather jacket and skinny army pants combo he donned himself looking like a piece from the same collection. With the bold-shouldered trend resting upon his own, it's going to take an army (probably dressed in Balmain) to knock him off his well-deserved perch.

Balmain

Newcomer to the high-fashion circuit Marant proved yet again why she's established herself amongst the cool crowd, with her relaxed boho style retaining that street edge from fall; her collection is extremely wearable. Not only is it wearable as a cohesive whole, one can see how those going for the model-off-duty look can add pieces into their existing wardrobes. With more colour than the greys of fall, one has to be leggy to pull off some of these pieces: loose minis with fringed boots, draped grey marle pants and skinny pinstripes. Still on the strong-shouldered bandwagon, it's obvious why the Marant fan club is recruiting members and a speedy rate.

Isabel Marant

Moroccan-born Israeli design genius Alber Elbaz took drapery and ruffles to a new, and unforgettable, level with his latest showing for French house Lanvin. No amount of journalistic genius can do this vision justice; the show was an array of gorgeously constructed garments where intricate design and textualisation were moulded together to create a visual delight for those who made the trek to a shed on the outskirts of Paris. This cult like following, revelling in the build up of beaded brilliance, is testament to the mind who lured them there. With the week just started, Paris is sure to be one we won't forget for a very long time, just as they intended, I'm sure.

Lanvin

photos: style.com