d'Orsay

I am sightly obsessed with this shape of shoe. While I don't usully gravitate towards a stiletto heel, there is just something so timeless - not to mention incredibly sexy - about the exposed arch and cutaway sides of this style. We were trying so hard at work today to figure out what the style is called, and, as usual, I couldn't sleep until I had my answer. The d'Orsay. Yes, like the Parisian museum. The Frenchness of the name seems quite fitting I think when you consider the sex appeal that the sharp heel, pointed toe and sleek cutaway ooze. And they are definitely a shape that is timeless and loved by all - men included (unlike, say, harem pants). Although I am definitely going through a head-over-heels (sorry) obsession with wedges, I know that I will never be able to pass up the perfect d'Orsay. 

Swedish blogger Elin Kling is proof (if any is even needed) that d'Orsays add instant chic to any pairing - ripped blues included. I could keep my wedge obsession intact with the Olsen's interpretation of the shape for their label Elizabeth and James - the perfect combination of my two favourite types of shoes. But, I really would love nothing more than to get my hands (feet, rather) on a pair of the patent heels from Stella McCartney's A/W 2010 collection. For now though, I'll settle with the black suede pair I spied in Zara. Oh, the joys of our Sydney store! 

Waist(less) Coats

With all this talk of masculine tailoring, the most obvious (and easiest to wear no doubt) is the omission of the waistline. While a cinched waist will always remain a classic, the looser fit allows for a modern take on separates, especially where proportions are concerned. As seen in many a pre-fall collection, including Celine, Stella McCartney, Jil Sander and even Alber Elbaz's females-should-dress-as-females Lanvin - the last inclusion showing that this shape can be as much for the girls as it is for the boys. And it wouldn't be a waistless season without the drop-waists at the house that Coco built - Chanel. 

Take style cues from ex-EiC of Vogue Paris, Carine Roitfeld, for whom tights and obligatory heels create the streamlined opposite of her coat. Or make like model Martha Streck, whose waist is ever so sightly nipped in under her camel coat, or Natalia Alaverdian, whose lengthened silhouette is helped by a form-skimming maxi skirt. By combining a voluminous coat with more fitted pieces, big (and even baggy) shapes are suddenly a far cry from manly. 

via: Style.com, the Sartorialist and StockholmStreetStyle

Paris wind-up: favourites of Spring 2010 prêt-à-porter

The end of Paris fashion week signals the end of the Spring 2010 season, and just in time for our very own Australian summer! The culmination of the shows heralds the end of runway party-season, with buyers for boutiques and departments stores the world over collating their lists of what exactly women will be wearing come summer. This season's in-store picks definitely won't disappoint- with the designers serving up an extremely wearable array of collections (amongst a few not so wearable... McQueen's amphibian woman instantly comes to mind here!) Below are some of my picks of the Paris collections that will have the biggest buyer appeal this season.

Celine

Phoebe Philo's latest showing for the French label will have women clamouring for the strong yet clean lines that have followed on from the fall shows. Minimalism was definitely the key trend, with the designer wanting to 'clean it up,' saying her aim was to make the collection 'strong and powerful.' Mission accomplished. The collection epitomised the contemporary woman; sharp tailoring paired with leather-everything; from the not-so-predictable jackets and capes to skirts, tops, dresses and shorts. Crisp whites and midnight blues perforated the neutral palette, which will ensure this collection packs a staying punch with the power-players.

Stella McCartney

Sticking to her 'what women want' aesthetic in a way that would've made Mel Gibson proud, saw Stella emerge from her boyfriend-blazer cocoon with the return of the waistlines. McCartney has always been one to focus on chic wearability as opposed to the showy artiness some designers can't get away from, and this aspect of her design is sure to please her clientele (and attract new ones) for many years to come. The blazers didn't disappear completely (thankfully!) but they were taken in a new- more shapely tailored- direction. Expertly placed ruffles were played down with pleats and belted waists, while also adorning bust and hemlines of print and flare-heavy skirts and dresses. As a cohesive collection, one can see how the woman McCartney designs for could easily move from day to night, office to weekend. Her chicly tailored separates enable wardrobe versatility; an aspect that couldn't have arrived during a more convenient summer.

Givenchy

With a mainly monochromal palette, Riccardo Tisci is another who's nailed the combination of geometric shapes and soft drapes. The program notes alluded to a roman theme; and while the toga-esque lines were a highlight, the Catholic inspired priest hats were not! The overall look was all clean-lined and refreshingly simple, and each piece had the sort of detail and craftsmanship you'd expect from one of the biggest names in Parisian couture. The handful of sheer, lightly draped dresses often complete with beaded shoulder accents were cleverly juxtaposed with the resounding strength in other silhouettes, creating a collection which will heavily - and successfully- target the edgy youth market.



Karl Lagerfeld also focused on accentuated waistlines paired with rising hemlines- a feature that also showed up in his collection for Chanel. This time around we saw a much more playful version of the label- in both the show and the clothes. Karl's current obsession, Lily Allen, kept the country theme rolling along, whilst the models waltzed (and in some cases, rolled) down the runway amongst bales of hay- whilst wearing clogs! Let's hope this part of Paris doesn't translate off-runway anytime soon. Lanvin's overt embellishment, whilst showing disregard for the recession, was a resounding favourite for the fashion-sweet tooths, while everything at Balmain will continue to be quick sellers, and feature on many a fashionable celebrity I'm sure. With the doom and gloom of winter behind us, this summer will shape up (quite literally) to be a buyer-blowout.


pictures: Style.com